A Real “Country” Doctor : November 8-9, 2009

November 8, 2009
The Scenic Journey towards Iron Mountain

It was Sunday 8 November and I was a year older. At 7 am Amy from Northstar Hospice picked me up from the AmericInn. It was good to meet Amy after talking to her on the phone. The morning was bright and sunny as Amy drove me back to the spot where Dee and Chuck had picked me up the day before.

Amy dropped me off and we arranged for her to pick me up the following morning to take me to the hospital to meet the hospice staff and talk to a local newspaper. Amy drove off and I began the 25 mile walk into Iron River. By the time I reached Iron River I would have walked 1,514 miles from New York. I had a week and 200 miles to go to reach Duluth. It was “doable,” but was going to be hard work. Events had been arranged in Duluth and I was due to meet with a filmmaker called Kimberly Paul and a photographer called Megan Deitz there. Kimberly worked at  Lower Cape Fear Hospice in North Carolina and wanted to make a short documentary about the walk. Megan would be taking photographs for the project. It was time to get motoring.

The border between Wisconsin and Michigan lay just a few miles further on from where I started off. I would now be in Michigan again for the next five days if everything went to plan.

The road was hilly, passing between pines and birch trees. I had just set off again from the park when a car pulled over and the guy inside started talking to me about the walk. It turned out he had cycled across the U.S. He lived in Duluth and gave me his address there, in case I had any problems or needed a place to stay. I thanked him and off he drove.

The pines gave way to maples and other deciduous trees around Crystal Falls. Twenty-one years ago I had been here when the leaves of the trees were red and yellow. Now they were bare of leaves, as winter was only a month and a half away.

Not far outside Crystal  Falls, I came to Lake Fortune. The sun shone down on the smooth silver lake and the dark green conifers around the lake reflected in the still waters. It was beautiful.

There were two large hills between Lake  Fortune and Iron River. I reached the second hill by 5pm, just as night began to fall. A car pulled over in front of me. Inside was a church minister. He asked me about the walk and gave a donation for hospice, but I was eager to get walking and reach Iron River.

A Surprise Encounter

With night falling the temperature began to drop, from the forties into the thirties. I put on my coat and had just set off when Dr. Han, Northstar Hospice’s medical director, climbed out of a car on the right side of the road. He had decided to walk with me into Iron  River and his wife had dropped him off.

I was amazed that Dr. Han had taken the time to come walk with me and impressed that he had showed up as it was getting dark. Sensibly he had a flashlight and he turned this on as we walked.

The night before he had said little over dinner: mostly because other people were monopolizing the conversation. It was good to have the chance to talk to him alone. As we walked his phone rang a couple of times. He gave instructions over the phone on how patients should be treated. He did this as we walked along the roadside in the dark, with cars going by. He was the perfect country doctor. Incredible.

Dr. Han summed up the way he had to work: ‘Up here, with long distances between the hospital and patients and limited resources, it’s not like medicine in the big cities. Here you’re often flying by the seat of your pants!’

As we walked we talked about politics and got on to hospice care. Again Dr. Han’s attitude was pragmatic: ‘”ou do what you can do, to make people’s lives better.”

The talk with Dr. Han was good. It brought home the realities of medical treatment. He talked of how the new generation of doctors was sometimes not prepared to try certain procedures, possibly because of lack of knowledge or the danger of liability. Health care was rarely perfect, but better than the alternative of doing nothing. There was also the issue of knowing when to stop treatments that were going nowhere. I explained to Dr. Han about the walk, saying that the walk was not about the walking, it was a way to meet people and be open to what was along the way. He liked that idea.

It was good to be walking and talking with Dr. Han. He knew a short cut into Iron  River that avoided a hill and would take us the hospital. By around 6.45 pm we were walking in through the automatic doors of the new building and then on to the canteen. Dr. Han introduced me to the canteen staff and both of us were soon sitting down to a warm dinner.

Over dinner Dr. Han was still answering phone calls to give advice on the treatment of patients. He was truly incredible. With dinner done he walked me from the hospital over to the AmericInn. As he left me there we shook hands, I asked him his first name:

“Bob,” came his reply.

‘It was good to meet you.’ Although we had only spent two hours together it had been good to get to know Dr. Han.

November 9, 2009

Things Begin to Fall into Place

Amy picked me up at 8:30 from the AmericInn and drove me the short distance to the hospital. There I talked to hospice staff, showing my presentation and gave an interview to a local reporter.

Dee and Tina dropped me back at the AmericInn and waved me off. What was good now, in this part of Michigan, was that there were mile markers on the road. As I walked, I could see the miles disappearing every 20 minutes or so.

A woman called Joett, from the Ojibwe Tribal Council, stopped to talk to me on the road. Amy had contacted Joett and the Tribal Council had arranged for me to stay in the hotel connected to Lac Vieux Desert Casino, near Watersmeet.

The plan was that Amy would drive out and meet me on the road at around 5pm. Amy would drive me to the hotel at the casino. The Tribal Police would then drop me back at the point that Amy picked me up from. The following day the Chief of Police in Marenisco, Bruce, would pick me up and give me a place to stay in Marenisco. After that Kathy of the Regional Hospice in Ironwood would make arrangements all the way up to Duluth. I breathed a sigh of relief that everything was falling into place, mostly thanks to Amy of  Northstar Hospice.

By 5pm dark was falling and I had reached mile marker 63. The end of Michigan was only 63 miles away. Ahead was a bridge. Amy pulled over in her van and in I climbed.

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